Picnic Blanket with Rock Pockets

You’ll need:

• 1/2 yard each of 8 different fabrics for the front squares and the rock pockets
• A full sized sheet or 3 1/2 yards of 42” wide fabric for the backing

• Low loft cotton batting – 61” x 61”
• Sewing machine
• A walking foot is helpful, but not necessary
• Scissors
• Straight pins
• Rotary cutter and mat are helpful, but not necessary
• Thread to match or contrast – you choose
• Masking tape
• Quilt safety pins
• Two skeins contrasting embroidery floss
• Quilters curved needle

Pre-wash all your fabrics and then cut them as follows:
1. Cut two 16” squares out of each fabric for the front (a total of 16 squares)

2. Choose four prints for the rock pockets and cut one 8” square out of each of these prints.

3. Cut a 61” x 61” piece out of the sheet for the back. (If you are using 42” wide fabric, cut your 3 1/2 yard piece into two lengths of 1 3/4 yards. Remove the selvedges and stitch together along what was the selvedge edge. Then square this piece to 61”)

Making the top:
1. All seam allowances are 1/2” unless otherwise stated.

2. Arrange the 16” squares in a four by four grid.

3. Sew each row of squares together from left to right. Press the seams open.

4. Next sew row 1 to row 2 making sure you match the seams. Press the seam open.

5. Repeat step 3 with rows 3 and 4.

6. Now sew row 2 to row 3. Press the seam open.

7. Measure your top. It should be 61” x 61”. If it is bigger than 61” square, cut your top to 61” x 61”. If it is smaller than 61” square, cut your backing and your batting to the same dimensions of your top.

8. Set the top aside.

Making the pockets:

1. Fold each of the 8” squares wrong sides together on the diagonal and press.

2. Stitch along the fold 1/4” from the edge.

3. With the right side of your backing facing, pin each pocket to its corner.

4. Stitch the pocket to the backing using a 1/4” seam allowance.

Putting it together:

1. Lay your backing fabric on the floor right side up, smooth out all wrinkles and tape it down along the edges with masking tape so it will remain stationary as you add the other layers of your blanket. (045)

2. Next, lay your top piece wrong side up on top of your backing, smoothing out wrinkles and matching edges and corners.

3. Place the batting on top, matching edges and corners.

4. Using quilter’s safety pins, baste the three layers together around each pocket.

5. Pin the layers together around the perimeter of the blanket using straight pins.

6. Sew the blanket together, around the edges using a straight stitch and a 1/2” seam. Leave a 15” opening on one side for turning.

7. After it is stitched together, clip the corners and turn the blanket right sides out.

8. Press the edges flat, turning the seam allowance towards the inside along your opening.

9. Pin the opening closed.

10. Top stitch around the entire blanket 1/4” from the edge using a zig zag stitch.

Tying the blanket:

1. Cut several 18” lengths of embroidery floss for tying the quilt. Use all six strands of floss together. You will get four or five ties out of each length of floss.

2. Lay your blanket on a flat surface with the top facing up and tape it down along the edges and corners with the masking tape.

3. Thread your curved needle with one length of embroidery floss. DO NOT tie a knot.

4. Beginning in the center of the blanket, tie it together where the squares meet. Then mark the center of each square and tie the layers together at these marks.

To make the ties:
1. Insert your needle through all three layers of your blanket bringing it back out about 1/4” from where you first inserted it.

2. Pull the thread through, leaving a 3 inch tail.

3. Re-insert the needle in the fabric in the same place that you first did and make an additional stitch.

4. Pull the thread taught and then cut the thread leaving a three inch tail.

5. Tie your two tails together using a square knot. (Right over left and then left over right.)

6. Trim the thread tails to 1”.

You’re finished!

To keep your blanket from blowing up, insert rocks or other weights in the triangle corners.

sew twirling skirt

To make a twirly skirt you will need:

Main skirt fabric (between 3/4 and 1 yard, depending on size).
Contrast fabric (1/2 yard)
1/2" elastic (enough to go around the child's waist, plus a little for overlap)
Sewing machine
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
Ruler
Thread to match
Pinking shears (optional)
Safety pin

Cut your fabric according to the sizes below. ALL PIECES ARE CUT WITH THE CENTER ON THE FOLD. WHEN YOU UNFOLD YOUR PIECES, THEY SHOULD BE TWICE AS WIDE AS STATED. The pieces in this photo are still folded. You should have two pieces for each part: skirt, casing, hem. The waist tie is made the same for each size. Of course, you can always make your skirt longer or shorter to suit your own needs.

This pattern uses European sizing (similar to Hanna Andersson). To ensure a good fit, you need to know the child's height.

90cm (34-38 inches): 2 skirts on the fold (19"w x 9"l each or 38" wide by 9" long each when unfolded)
100cm (38-42 inches): 2 skirts on the fold (19.5"w x 10.5"l each or 39" wide by 10.5" long each when unfolded)
110cm (42-46 inches): 2 skirts on the fold (20"w x 12"l each or 40" wide by 12" long each when unfolded)
120cm (46-50 inches): 2 skirts on the fold (21"w x 13.5"l each or 42" wide by 13.5" long each when unfolded)
130cm (50-54 inches): 2 skirts on the fold (21.75"w x 15"l each or 43.5" wide by 15" long each when unfolded)

For the waistband, cut 2 pieces on the fold 2.5" long by the width of your skirt (e.g., size 120 = 21"w x 2.5"l)

For the hem band, cut 2 pieces on the fold 3.5" long by the width of your skirt (e.g., size 120 = 21"w x 3.5"l)

For the waist tie, cut 1 piece on the fold 1.5 " long by the width of your fabric (42-44") and 1 piece (not on the fold) 1.5" long by 12" wide. Or you can use ribbon - approximately 65" in length.

OK - let's start. All seam allowances are 1/2 inch unless stated otherwise!

Pin skirt pieces right sides together. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew right side seam. On left side, start sewing your seam 1 1/2 inches from the top.

Press open side seams and pink or zig zap the edges.

With right sides together, sew both side seams of the hem band.

Press seams open and pin to bottom of the skirt, right sides together, lining up side seams.
Sew hem band to skirt bottom.
Press seam towards hem band.
Turn edge of hem band 1/4 inch towards wrong side and press.
Fold hem band towards wrong side of skirt. Line up the edge you just pressed with the seam stitches.
Press and pin in place.

Staying 1/8 inch from edge, sew hem band in place.

I suppose most people would topstitch instead of sewing on the wrong side. I don't think it matters with this skirt.

Sew right side seam of waistband together and press open

With right sides together, line up the seam you just sewed to the right seam of the skirt. Pin in place.

Fold back seam allowances on open end of waistband so that they match the skirt seam. Press and pin in place.

Sew waistband to skirt.

Press seam towards waistband.

Fold top of waistband 1/4 inch towards wrong side. Press in place.

Top stitch open end of waistband 1/8 inch from edge, pivoting at the bottom corners.

Now fold the waistband towards the wrong side of the skirt aligning it with the seam stitching - just like you did on the hem. Press and pin in place.

Sew waistband 1/8 inch from edge to form casing.

Time to make your tie. If you prefer to use ribbon, you are almost done
Sew the small strip of 1/2 inch wide fabric to the longer piece right sides together. Fold both ends in so they meet in the middle and press

Fold each end in 1/4 inch and press.

Fold the strip in half. Press and pin.

Stitch 1/8 inch from edge to close the tie.

Using a safety pin, attach your tie (or ribbon) to the elastic.

Pull the tie and elastic through the casing making sure that the tie (or ribbon) stays towards the right side of the skirt.

Gather it up and pull the safety pin through the other open end.

Try the skirt on its new owner to determine where you should sew the elastic together. The ends should overlap about 1 inch. I mark the both ends of the elastic with a pen or pin them together so I know just where to sew.

Using a wide zig zag stitch, sew the elastic together. It's a good idea to backstitch this so it doesn't come loose.


Even out the ends of your drawstring, tie a bow .you have a twirly skirt!