Nappy bag for baby stuff

I took photos of every step of the process, so if you are looking for a detailed nappy wallet tutorial, please click Read more. 


To make a nappy wallet you will need:

• measuring tape
• pencil
• ruler
• paper
• fabric for outer layer
• fabric for the lining (if you would like to use different prints)
• pins
• thread
• scissors (for both fabric and paper)
• button or velcro

To make a pattern please think what you would like to fit in your nappy wallet. I find that two nappies, a slim box of wipes and a small changing mat is enough. My pattern was 62 cm x 29.5 cm with 1 cm seam allowance included. If metric system is just as confusing for you as imperial for me, here is what a converting site suggests: 24.4 in x 11.6 in with 0.4 in seam allowance included. To save having to draw something so long I halved the width and ended up with a shorter pattern (31 cm x 29.5 cm, or 12.2 in x 11.6 in). I folded fabric and cut it on fold.

If you think you would like your nappy wallet bigger or smaller, here is how I worked out measurements. 

I put together what I wanted to be able to place in a nappy wallet.

I needed to work out the width of the nappy wallet. I placed nappies on top of each other and using my measuring tape measured the distance from the point where I wanted the pocket to begin all the way around to where the centre of the nappy wallet would be. To get the width of the wallet, multiply this measurement by two and add seam allowance.

Alternatively, put the rest of the items on top and run your measuring tape as if forming another pocket. Or come up with something else that suits you :)

To determine the length of the wallet I simply measured the longest item in the pile and added seam allowance.

I will explain how I worked out the measurements for the strap a little later. For now let's make a nappy wallet.

I traced my pattern onto fabric and cut out two rectangles. I chose to use two different prints for the outer layer and the lining.

I placed two pieces of fabric right sides facing (simply speaking the brighter coloured sides were facing each other), then pinned them together.

Stitched around leaving a small opening on one of the shorter sides. Clipped corners.

Turned the wallet right side out, tucked the raw edges on the opening inside and carefully pressed.

Next, I sewed along the shorter sides very close to the edge.

Now I had one massive rectangle. It was time to mark the position of the pockets. I put everything back in the wallet, folded my massive rectangle to form pockets on each side and pinned them in place. If you are using my measurements, my pockets are 12 cm (or 4.7 in) wide each.

 Then I marked the position of the pockets on the inside of the nappy wallet with a pencil.

Now it was time to make a strap. Let's face it, a basic nappy wallet is not the most exciting looking thing in the world. A strap can make it look more interesting. So what is it going to look like? There are so many options! Would you like a thin strap? A thicker one? Would you like to use velcro? buttons? elastic? How about embellishments?

For my very first nappy wallet I made a thin strap with velcro.

For the second, I made a thin-ish strap with elastic inside and a button to make it look funky. Having elastic sewn inside the strap also allowed the recipient to place an extra nappy in the wallet. 

And here I played with piping.

For this wallet I opted for a thicker strap and a button.

I used my measuring tape to work out how long the strap had to be by wrapping it around the nappy wallet.

I noted the length, decided on the width and cut my pattern out of paper, adding seam allowances of course.

The rest was really straight forward. I cut out two pieces of fabric, placed them right sides facing, 

stitched around as shown in the photo below, trimmed the corners and the curve. I really wanted a curved strap :)

Turned the strap right side out and pressed.

Top stitched very close to the edge. I stitched all around, but there was no need to stitch the side that would be sewn onto the wallet. I got carried away. 

I made a buttonhole. This was my first automatic buttonhole. Excited much!

 Next, I marked where the strap needed to be sewn onto the wallet.

Stitched the strap onto the body of the wallet.

Folded the wallet again to form the pockets, lined up each side with the markings I made earlier, and pinned the pockets in place.

Then I stitched close to the edge along the top and the bottom of the wallet. Yes I got to use my seam ripper in the process :)

Marked the position of the button...

Ta-da!!

Girl's Ruffle Shirt

  

Materials:

• a large pillowcase (40 x 20 inches) or same amount of fabric (40 x 40 inches)
• matching thread
• 2 inch matching ribbon
• a button

Instructions:

1. Flip the pillowcase inside out and lay flat. Then place a dress that is the size and fit you like for measurements. Using a washable fabric marker I marked the collar, armpits and the length of the dress.
   
   
    
2. Add seam allowance to the markings on your pillowcase. I used 1/2 inch seam allowance everywhere unless noted otherwise in later instructions. The bottom of the dress I added 2 inches for the seam and the hem. I matched the shoulder of the pattern to the top of the pillowcase so I didn’t have to sew that part. Once you marked your measurements, fold the pillowcase in half long ways then cut. I do this so the left side of the dress will be exact with the right side. Keep all your scrap pieces because you’ll use them.
   
   Tip: Make the collar a little straight at the bottom instead of rounded because you’ll have the ruffles there.
   
   
    
3. Cut strips for the other parts of the dress using remaining pillowcase. Large strip that goes down the middle of the dress is 3 1/2 x 20 inch. The ruffles are 4 x 40 inch strips, you’ll need 2. The collar is 2 x 30 inch, this only has a 1/4 inch seam allowance. The V-split on the back of the dress is 1 1/2 x 6 inch, this also has a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
   
   Tip: Use tape to mark each strip so you don’t get them mixed up.
   
   
    
4. Using scraps cut the sleeves. You’ll need 4 pieces of 3 x 10 inch in the shape pictured below
5. Flip the dress right side out. On the back side of the dress, find the middle of the collar and cut a 3 inch slit. This is for the V-split (I don’t know what the technical term for it is, so correct me if I’m wrong) closure on the back of the dress. Be careful not to cut the front of the dress too.
   
   
    
6. Take the V-split strip (1 1/2 x 6 inch) and iron the 2 long sides with 1/4 inch seam into the wrong side of the fabric. Then fold in half and iron so you now have a 1/2 x 6 inch strip. Then pin it to the slit you just cut. The bottom of the V will have a fold. Make sure that’s on the inside of the dress. Sew strip in place (see tip below) as close to the edge as you can.
   
   Tip: The best way to pin is to open the V wide so it’s a straight line. Pin then allow it to naturally fold back to a V. Same thing with sewing it.
   
   
    
7. With the dress inside out, match the two sides of the V-split so the strip you just sewed on is in half and flat. Then sew the bottom of the V at a 45 degree angle.
   
   
   
   
    
8. Moving to the front of the dress now. Iron the ruffle pieces in half the long way right side out. With the short ends of the ruffle pieces temporarily turned inside out, sew the two short ends. Iron them flat right side out again. Next, do a basting stitch down the open side at 1/4 inch seam with the right side out.
   
   
   
   
   
   
    
9. Iron the 1/2 inch seam on both sides of the large middle piece then place down the middle of the dress. Pin it in place with the dress right side out, front side up. Scrunch the ruffle pieces and pin one side in place. Account for the 3/4 inch collar that will be at the top and the 2 inches at the bottom of the dress for the seam and hem. Sew a straight line from the top of dress all the way to the bottom to keep the strip and the ruffles in place. Then do the same to the second side. Trim off the excess at the top and the bottom from the large middle strip.
   
   
   
   
    
10. Take the collar strip and iron 1/4 inch seam into the wrong side of the fabric on both of the long sides. Fold in half long way and iron right side out. At one of the short ends of the collar sew the end close with the wrong sides out. Flip right side out then iron. The collar should now be 3/4 inch wide. Starting from the back of the dress, pin the collar in place using the closed end matching one of the V-split ends.
    
    
     
11. The collar piece should be longer than the collar on the dress. On the opened end of the collar strip, measure the end of the collar and add 1/4 inch for seam then trim off excess. Flip the opened end inside out and place the ribbon on the inside, touching the right side of the fabric. Make sure the ends of the ribbon matches the end of the open ended collar so it will be sewn in place with the seam. Sew the seam, flip right side out and iron. Sew the collar in place all the way around as close to the edge as you can.
    
    
    
    
    
    
     
12. The sleeves. Match two pieces right sides together. Sew only the curved side at 1/4 inch seam. Flip right side out and iron. Do to both sleeves. Then pin the sleeves to the arms on the dress (see picture below). Sew the sleeves in place then use a serger or zig zag stitch the seam of the sleeve. Iron flat.
    
    
    
    
     
13. Flip the dress inside out and pin the sides of the dress. Sew at 1/2 inch seam then use a serger or zig zag stitch to go over the seam.
    
    
     
14. Fold the bottom of the dress at 1/2 inch then iron all the way around on the wrong side of the dress. Then fold again so the hem matching the front ruffles. Iron the hem then sew it all the way around.
    
    
     
15. Sew button on the back and you’re done!