Cloverleaf Bag Tutorial

This reversible, bucket-style tote has asymmetrical integrated straps that loop through each other to close the bag. Its reversibility is the natural result of having a full lining, so that the bag can be used with either side out. In the Make A Bag series, its structure was briefly discussed without any templates or sewing instructions; its point was simply the deconstruction of its looped straps. Today I am happy to share the full tutorial on Sew Mama Sew.

The two layers (outer and lining) of this bag are identical in structure and construction, so the instructions that follow are for ONE layer, with the reminder to repeat the entire process to make the second layer. The piping around the base is optional but it does add to both the aesthetics and support of the bag’s structure. For a simpler version of the Cloverleaf Bag, simply omit the piping in one or both layers.

Download and print the pattern here. Some notes:

Fabric + Yardage
For yardage requirements, readers should look at the templates and photographs and estimate accordingly. Fabric in at least home-dec weight is recommended, along with a layer of sew-in interfacing for a more robust bag. However, the lining layer may be substituted with a lighter-weight fabric such as quilting cotton. If quilting cotton is used for both layers, two layers of interfacing are recommended: a commercial sew-in interfacing should be basted to one fabric layer and a heavy fabric, e.g. canvas or duck cloth, basted to the other fabric layer.

Assumed Knowledge
Whenever two pieces of fabric are connected with a seam, they are sewn with their RS (right sides) together and the seam then pressed open. This seam can then be top-stitched on the RS for strength and aesthetics. Here are two ways to do this:

(i) (Green example) Fold the SA (seam allowance) to one side on the WS (wrong side) and topstitch a single line through all three layers on the RS (right side). This is suitable for non-bulky fabrics and/or seams that will be under stress.
(ii) (Grey example) Split the SA to each side of the seam on the WS and topstitch two lines on the RS to hold the SA apart. This is suitable for bulkier fabrics and/or seams that will not be under stress.

What you need for EACH layer:

• One Short Loop Strap (from template)
• One Long Loop Strap (from template)
• One Strap Extension – this is a rectangle of dimensions 1.75″ x 11.5″, which includes 1/4″ SA all around
• One Body (in fabric) – this is a rectangle 23″ x 7″, including 1/2″ SA all around
• One Body (in interfacing) – this is a rectangle 23″ x 7″, including 1/2″ SA all around
• One Base (in fabric) – this is an 8″ circle, including 1/2″ SA all around
• One Base (in interfacing) – this is an 8″ circle, including 1/2″ SA all around
• Piping Fabric (light cotton or heavier) – this is a rectangle of dimensions 1.75″ x 25″
• Piping Cord 1/4″(approx diameter) x 24″

In addition you will need coordinating sewing thread, a sewing machine and the usual sewing notions.

Step One
Partially assemble the Strap Cylinder.

The schematic photograph above shows how the three Strap pieces (Short Loop Strap, Long Loop Strap and Strap Extension) will eventually be connected. First, simply connect one end (B) of the Strap Extension piece to one point B of the Long Loop Strap piece by sewing their ends together. Then sew the short sides of the Short Loop Strap piece and the Long Loop Strap piece together to form a squat cylinder as shown below. Set aside.

Step Two
Stabilize the Body and Base pieces by basting (sew long stitches close to the edge of the material, within the SA region) the corresponding interfacing pieces to their WS.

Step Three
Sew the short ends of the stabilized Body together to form a cylinder.

Step Four (Optional)
Make and attach the piping to the bottom edge of the Body cylinder. Fold the piping fabric in half lengthwise (RS out) over the piping cord. Using a zipper foot, sew a line of stitching close to the piping cord to encase it. Use the longest stitch length, as you will be unpicking some of the stitches later.

Align the SA of the piping and bottom edge of the Body cylinder as shown by the red arrows in the photograph below and, using the zipper foot, sew close to the piping cord to attach the piping all around the bottom edge of the Body cylinder. Leave the first inch of the piping unattached, for overlapping with the tail end of the piping later.

When you’ve sewn all around the cylinder and returned to the starting point, unpick the rest of the long stitches to expose the piping cord, then cut off the excess cord, so that the two ends of the cord meet up without bunching. Working with about 1.5″ of overlapping piping fabric (trim the rest off), fold in the short edge of the tail end, tuck under the head end of the piping…

…Fold the fabric of the tail end completely over the head end to encase the cord again, and then continue sewing to complete the circumference. For more detailed photographs and instructions on this method of attaching and finishing piping, see my earlier tutorial on Sew Mama Sew here, Steps 9 to 16.

Step Five
Attach the Base to the Body.

Snip halfway through the SA of the bottom edge of the Body cylinder in preparation for attaching it to the circular Base.

Make quarter marks around the Base and bottom edge of the Body and match these up when you attach the Body to the Base.

Using the zipper foot, and with the Body on top and the Base below (their RS should be together), sew the Body to the Base. The needle should be in the side most position that allows it to sew close to the piping cord.

The Body cylinder is complete. Trim the SA of the Base to about 1/4″ to reduce bulk and turn RS out.

Step Six
Attach the Strap cylinder to the Body cylinder. Fit the Strap cylinder upside down and WS out over the Body cylinder as shown. Line up their SA at the rim and sew all around to attach the layers.

Flip the Strap cylinder up, press the seam and topstitch on the RS.

The outer layer is finished. Set aside.

Step Seven
Make the inner layer (lining layer).

Repeat Steps 1 though 6 with the lining materials to make a second bag just like the first, with the following considerations:
(i) Omit the interfacing if using home dec weight fabric or heavier for this layer.
(ii) Omit the piping if reversibility is not desired.
(iii) Attach the Strap Extension piece in mirror image of the outer layer, so that when the two layers are combined with the RS together in Step 8, the straps will match up exactly.
(iv) Leave an opening (about 3″ wide) in the side seam of the Body cylinder for turning the entire bag RS out later (see photo to follow).
(v) Do not topstitch the side seam of the Body cylinder (as it has an opening left in it).

Step Eight
Sew the two layers together. Turn one layer WS out (in the picture below, it is the lining layer) and insert it completely into the other layer (in the picture below, it is the outer layer).

Line up the straps with their RS together, pin in place and sew all around their edges as shown by the blue dashed lines, to attach both layers together. Leave the first 1″ to 1.5″ at the ends of the straps unstitched, to allow you to connect them together in separate layers later.

Snip the curved SA and turn the entire bag (including the straps) RS out through the opening left in the lining.

Step Nine
Connect the straps. With RS together (this might involve some twisting and manipulating), sew the ends of the straps of the same layer together to form complete loops. Work with one layer at a time, peeling back the other layer. Connect ends A to each other and ends B to each other, of the respective layer (refer to the second photograph if you’ve forgotten what A and B are).

Here is the RS of that same seam, with the now-connected solid green lining layer behind it.

Do this for all four junctions, then press the seams open and topstitch all around (see blue dashed line below), closing the openings in the straps in the process.

The junction where the ends A meet might be initially angular, so smooth it out as best you can when you press the SA and topstitch around it.

Step Ten
Using the ladder stitch, hand-stitch the opening in the lining shut.

The Cloverleaf Bag is completed!

gathered clutch tutorial

Materials needed:

• 1/4 yard each of three coordinating fabrics (you'll definitely have scraps leftover)
• 8" zipper (you can always purchase a longer zipper and shorten it, just follow the directions on the package
• scraps of medium weight fusible interfacing

Cutting the pieces:
For the main exterior, cut two pieces, one 5.5" tall by 9" wide, and one 5.5" tall by 13" wide (this will be the gathered front)
Pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing for exterior pieces of clutch: (2) 5.5" tall by 9" wide
For the front band, cut one piece 4" tall by 9" wide.
For the lining, cut two pieces 5.5" tall by 9" wide
For the zipper end covers: two pieces 1.5" tall by 2.5" wide.
Optional Parts:
For the divider pocket, cut one piece 8" tall by 9" wide (apply interfacing to half, you'll need at 4" x 9" piece)
For the card holders, cut one piece 7" tall by 9" wide (apply interfacing to half, you'll need at 3.5" x 9" piece)

Seriously, the most time consuming part for me is always picking out my fabrics and cutting them, the rest goes together pretty easy, so let's go!

Take the front band piece and fold it in half the long way (right sides together) and sew together using a 1/2" seam allowance.  

Turn tube right side out and press with seam in the middle.  Set aside.

Grab the 13" wide main exterior piece.  Sew two lines of gathering stitches down the middle, about 1" apart.  

Pull the top threads to gather, pull until the length is 9" long.  Press the gathers in place.  

Take the front band and pin it in the middle of the exterior piece you just finished.  

Top stitch along each side of the band.  Take the 5.5" tall by 9" interfacing piece and iron it to the WRONG side of the gathered piece.  This makes all the gathering and stitching stay in place nicely.  Set aside.

Make the divider pocket:  

Fuse interfacing to half of the piece.  

Fold fabric in half with WRONG sides together, press.  Topstitch along folded edge and then add another line of topstiching about 1/4" below the first line of topstitching.  Set aside.

Make the card holders:

Fuse interfacing to half of the piece.  Fold fabric in half with WRONG sides together, press. 

Topstitch along folded edge and then add another line of topstiching about 1/8" below the first line of topstitching.  

Take one piece of the lining fabric and line up the card holder with raw edges together, one on top of the other baste along side and bottom edged of card holder (the plaid fabric).  

Grab your credit card or driver's license and mark with a pin how far you want your card to stick up from the slot.  Sew a line across the lining/card holder piece where you marked with the pin.  Sew one line of stitching down the center of the card holder.  

Take your card again and mark with a pin where the edge of your card is (you can leave a little wiggle room, but it's nice to keep it pretty snug to hold your cards in place).  Sew a line for the side of the card, repeat for other side.  Now you should have two card holders!  Set aside.

Making the end tabs for the zipper:

Fold the piece of fabric in half width wise, turn down each raw edge to the center crease and press (the pic above doesn't show it pressed in far enough).  Repeat for other end tab.  

Take your zipper and sandwich the fabric around the zipper, just poking over the little metal bits.

Topstitch a line straight across the zipper with a very small seam allowance being careful not to hit those metal parts!  Repeat for other end.  Trim the fabric tabs to the width of the zipper.  IMPORTANT!  The length of the zipper with the tabs on should measure about 8.5" end to end.  

Baste the card holders to one piece of lining and the divider pocket to the other piece of  lining, aligning the raw edges at the bottom.

Almost done!  

Assembling the clutch:

Place your gathered exterior piece RIGHT side up (whoops!, had it wrong in the pic, don't worry, just get out your seam ripper and start again).  Put the zipper teeth side down with the pull tab to the LEFT.  Then put the lining piece WRONG side up.  Pin in place.  

Using your zipper foot sew along the edge of this zipper sandwich.  Flip pieces so the WRONG sides are together.  Please note that in a few of these shots the zipper with end tabs sewn on is longer than the clutch exteriors and linings, it was the first one I made and have since made adjustments to the measurements, all updates are inluded here in the tutorial.

Grab the other exterior piece, place RIGHT side up.  Put the zipper teeth side down with the pull tab on the RIGHT this time. Place the remaining lining piece WRONG side up on top of the zipper.  Pin in place, sew.  Flip pieces so the WRONG side are facing eachother.  Press!  

Put your regular sewing foot back on and sew a line of topstitching on either side of the zipper.

Now open your zipper about halfway, don't forget this!  I actually forgot to do this on all three clutches, don't worry, you can still wiggle the zipper open if you carefully pull at it through the fabric.

Place the exterior pieces RIGHT sides together and the lining pieces RIGHT sides together.  Push the zipper end tabs in towards the lining, hopefully this side view pic makes sense. 

Sew all around the edge using a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a 3-4" opening in the lining for turning.  Make sure you try to sew right next to the zipper end tabs and not actually throught them, click here for a visual.  Clip corners.  It also helps to sew with a slightly larger seam allowance when you go to sew around the lining pieces.

Turn the clutch right side out.  Push corners out.  Stitch the opening in the lining closed using a small seam allowance.  Tuck the lining into the clutch.  Press again and your DONE!!!   Phew.  It does seam like a lengthy process, but it really does sew up pretty quickly.  For the biggest time saver, just skip the divider pocket and card holders! Or add a handle!  The one below I just put in a mini pocket!

**Update**  If you don't add the divider or card pockets, I would recommend adding a layer of fusible fleece or even canvas as interfacing, it will make the clutch more sturdy.

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Have fun with it and give that mom in your life a big hug!

Interior shots

interior card holders (2 - side by side)