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Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Gathered Drape Skirt Tutorial


Supplies:
flowy fabric – knit or polyester
elastic (1″ – 1.5″ inches wide)
sewing machine or needle and thread
thread
scissors
flexible measuring tape
fabric pen or marking chalk
iron
pins
Instructions:
*If you are NOT using knit, note that you can not have a bow waist band because it can only be there if the material is stretchy, therefore knit. So, your options if you WANT the bow waistband but are using a non stretchy material (step #6) are: you have to use a stretchy material like knit for the waistband or add a zipper if the waistband (not the elastic part) will not be non stretchy. Or even more simple than that…just keep the waistband elastic exposed, just make sure to sew the raw edges of the skirt UNDER the elastic as you should be anyway.
1. Cut the pieces to the measurements specified in the diagram.
2. Fold in half and cut the two angles. Each angle about 1/3 of the length when folded. So the middle piece, which is the pocket piece will be 1/3 as well. The deeper you cut the angle the more drape. Make sure that when you cut the two angles, that you know that the length from the bottom of the angles will be how short it is in the front and back of the skirt. I make the angle a little deeper in the front.
3. Open up the fabric and gather with basting stitch the cut angles. Gather them to the exact length you want them to fall on your body.
4. Measure the elastic comfortably around the waist and make sure it can slide over you hips. The elastic can be as wide as you like (I wish mine was 1.5 inches wide). Pin the elastic ends together so you can wear it while you mark it. Mark the elastic when stretched around your waist in 5 places – even though there will be 6 markings (one doesn’t need to be marked because it is where the elastic will be sewn together, the two ends). Mark the center of the back and the center front doesn’t need to be marked (which is actually going to be the sewn part of the elastic or two ends). Mark where you want the pocket to start and end (like shown picture #2 below) in the front sides and back sides, making 4 markings. Sew a zig zag stitch to join the elastic to the gathered parts of the fabric to where the markings indicate (Like picture #3), leave a quarter to half inch un-sewn at the ends of the gathered pieces for the pocket attachment. So, the edge of each gathered piece is where the pocket’s beginning or end will be. Make sure to NOT sew the pocket openings so there will be a open drape.
*When you stretch the elastic after you have sewn on the gathered part, you will hear snapping of the basting stitch in the gathered fabric sections. Which is normal because it is now gathered onto the elastic. Unless you want to take out the basting stitch after you’ve sewn it onto the elastic, that is fine too.
5. Measure pockets to be the length of the opening in the elastic (like picture #1). The pocket will be a deep U shape. Make them as long as you like, the longer they are the deeper the pockets will be. Sew the bottom U shape of the pocket to the open drape sections of the skirt (like shown in picture #5). You may have to gather the bottom of the pocket’s U shape, it depends on the deepness and roundness of the pocket. Now, sew the top of the pocket to the elastic with a zig zag stitch. It should fall into place pretty perfectly (shown picture #4). Now the skirt should be looking like picture #6 and #7. Sew the front two ends of fabric and elastic together to make the front seam of the skirt with a straight stitch (picture #8).
6. Measure and cut out a waist band (This ONLY works if using knit or stretchy material for the waistband or you are planning on installing a zipper). If you aren’t doing this in a stretchy material, then make it into a tie first, then later install a zipper. Make sure to fabric is cut so the stretch is from right to left, and make sure it is your waist size plus enough to tie a bow (an extra 3 or 4 feet). If you are doing this in knit, then you don’t have to hem the edges or sew it in a tube (but you can do either of those if you want). I didn’t. I liked how thin it was without the hemming or making it into a tie (and plus knit doesn’t fray). Make the width at least an inch or two over wider than the elastic, mine was around 5 to 6 inches wide. Find the center of the waistband and center back of the skirt, if you want the bow center front, then pin them together there. If you want it off center like mine, then move and pin the center of the waistband off center of the center back. Make sure to pin and sew the waistband, right sides together, to just under the elastic with a zig zag stitch or my favorite, a vari-overlock stitch which looks like a zig zag stitch with a flat side. Sew all the way around till there is less than an inch between the two ties. This opening will be covered once the bow is tied. Flip the newly sewn waistband up to cover the elastic and tie a bow. If you don’t want the bow, just make the waistband the exact size of your waist (as long as it can slide over you hips) and sew the band together, then follow the directions for the bow waistband. But pin the center of the waistband in front not back so the seam will be in the back.

Friday, August 16, 2013

Granny Square Poncho

pp10cce1ab.jpg
MATERIALS: 2-150 yd balls size 10 crochet thread in ea of following colors: Orchid Pink, Frosty Green and Maize (yellow) and 4-350 yd balls size 10 crochet thread in Deft Blue, needle to take crochet thread and size 7 hook of hook needed to obtain gauge. 
 FINISHED SIZE:  Med\Lg Child’s size Gauge:   Block = 2” square
BLOCK:
With color A and 7 hook ch-6 sl st to form a ring.

RND 1: Ch-3, work 2 dc in ring, ch-2, (3 dc, ch-2) 3 times sl st top beg ch-3, fasten off.
RND 2: With color B join in any ch-2 sp, ch-3, (2 dc, ch-2, 3 dc) sa sp, ch-2, (3 dc, ch-2, 3 dc, ch-2) 3 times, sl st top beg ch-3, fasten off.
RND 3: With color C join in any corner ch-2 sp, ch-3, (2 dc, ch-2, 3 dc) sa sp, ch-2,* (3 dc, ch-2) next ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch-2, 3 dc, ch-2) next ch-2 sp, * rep bet ** 3 times, 3 dc next ch-2 sp, ch-2, sl st top beg ch-3, fasten off.
RND 4: With color D join in any ch-2 corner sp, ch-3, (2 dc, ch-2, 3 dc) sa sp, ch-2, * (3 dc, ch-2) next 2 ch-2 sps, (3 dc, ch-2, 3 dc, ch-2) next ch-2 sp, * rep bet ** 3 times, (3 dc, ch-2) next 2 ch-2 sps, sl st top beg ch-3, fasten off.
RND 5: With Blue in any corner ch-2 sp, ch-3, (2 dc, ch-2, 3 dc) sa sp, ch-2, (3 dc, ch-2) next 3 ch-2 sps, (3 dc, ch-2, 3 dc, ch-2) next ch-2 sp, * rep bet ** 3 times, (3 dc, ch-2) next 3 ch-2 sps, sl st top beg ch-3, do not turn.
RND 6: Sl st next 2 sts and into ch-2 sp, ch-2, (2 dc, ch-2, 3 dc) sa sp, ch-2,* (3 dc, ch-2) next 4 ch-2 sps, (3 dc, ch-2, 3 dc, ch-2) next ch-2 sp, * rep bet ** 3 times, (3 dc, ch-2) next 4 ch-2 sps, sl st top beg ch-3, fasten off.
BLOCK ONE:
Rnd 1 use green.  Rnd 2 use blue.  Rnd 3 use pink.  Rnd 4 use yellow.  Rnd 5-6 use blue.
-Make 43 of these.
BLOCK TWO:
Rnd 1 use blue.  Rnd 2 use green.  Rnd 3 use yellow.  Rnd 4 use pink.  Rnd 5-6 use blue.
-Make 43 of these.

Nappy bag for baby stuff





I took photos of every step of the process, so if you are looking for a detailed nappy wallet tutorial, please click Read more


To make a nappy wallet you will need:
  • measuring tape
  • pencil
  • ruler
  • paper
  • fabric for outer layer
  • fabric for the lining (if you would like to use different prints)
  • pins
  • thread
  • scissors (for both fabric and paper)
  • button or velcro
To make a pattern please think what you would like to fit in your nappy wallet. I find that two nappies, a slim box of wipes and a small changing mat is enough. My pattern was 62 cm x 29.5 cm with 1 cm seam allowance included. If metric system is just as confusing for you as imperial for me, here is what a converting site suggests: 24.4 in x 11.6 in with 0.4 in seam allowance included. To save having to draw something so long I halved the width and ended up with a shorter pattern (31 cm x 29.5 cm, or 12.2 in x 11.6 in). I folded fabric and cut it on fold.

If you think you would like your nappy wallet bigger or smaller, here is how I worked out measurements. 

I put together what I wanted to be able to place in a nappy wallet.


I needed to work out the width of the nappy wallet. I placed nappies on top of each other and using my measuring tape measured the distance from the point where I wanted the pocket to begin all the way around to where the centre of the nappy wallet would be. To get the width of the wallet, multiply this measurement by two and add seam allowance.

Alternatively, put the rest of the items on top and run your measuring tape as if forming another pocket. Or come up with something else that suits you :)


To determine the length of the wallet I simply measured the longest item in the pile and added seam allowance.


I will explain how I worked out the measurements for the strap a little later. For now let's make a nappy wallet.

I traced my pattern onto fabric and cut out two rectangles. I chose to use two different prints for the outer layer and the lining.


I placed two pieces of fabric right sides facing (simply speaking the brighter coloured sides were facing each other), then pinned them together.


Stitched around leaving a small opening on one of the shorter sides. Clipped corners.


Turned the wallet right side out, tucked the raw edges on the opening inside and carefully pressed.



Next, I sewed along the shorter sides very close to the edge.


Now I had one massive rectangle. It was time to mark the position of the pockets. I put everything back in the wallet, folded my massive rectangle to form pockets on each side and pinned them in place. If you are using my measurements, my pockets are 12 cm (or 4.7 in) wide each.


 Then I marked the position of the pockets on the inside of the nappy wallet with a pencil.


Now it was time to make a strap. Let's face it, a basic nappy wallet is not the most exciting looking thing in the world. A strap can make it look more interesting. So what is it going to look like? There are so many options! Would you like a thin strap? A thicker one? Would you like to use velcro? buttons? elastic? How about embellishments?

For my very first nappy wallet I made a thin strap with velcro.


For the second, I made a thin-ish strap with elastic inside and a button to make it look funky. Having elastic sewn inside the strap also allowed the recipient to place an extra nappy in the wallet. 


And here I played with piping.


For this wallet I opted for a thicker strap and a button.

I used my measuring tape to work out how long the strap had to be by wrapping it around the nappy wallet.



I noted the length, decided on the width and cut my pattern out of paper, adding seam allowances of course.


The rest was really straight forward. I cut out two pieces of fabric, placed them right sides facing, 


stitched around as shown in the photo below, trimmed the corners and the curve. I really wanted a curved strap :)


Turned the strap right side out and pressed.


Top stitched very close to the edge. I stitched all around, but there was no need to stitch the side that would be sewn onto the wallet. I got carried away. 

I made a buttonhole. This was my first automatic buttonhole. Excited much!


 Next, I marked where the strap needed to be sewn onto the wallet.


Stitched the strap onto the body of the wallet.


Folded the wallet again to form the pockets, lined up each side with the markings I made earlier, and pinned the pockets in place.


Then I stitched close to the edge along the top and the bottom of the wallet. Yes I got to use my seam ripper in the process :)


Marked the position of the button...


Ta-da!!