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Sunday, February 17, 2013

Sewing Girl Ruffle Dresss



The fabric I used was that 5yards/5 dollars you find on a piece of cardboard, very much like a cross between lining and taffeta=nothing fancy.  I started by cutting about 3 1/2 yards of it in strips, 6" wide.
 Sew all the strips together, press open seams and then fold entire piece in half lengthwise, pressing so edges are even with each other.
 Gather entire strip.  There are lots of ways you can do this, here are three option: I used a ruffling foot, you can also stitch two basting stitches along the edges and gather the fabric by pulling the threads from one side, or you can increase your thread tension and rest a couple of fingers on your top spool of thread, gathering as you go. 
To create the base of the dress measure your child or your child's shirt from center sleeve to center sleeve.  This will be the top of the back (or front depending on your preference).  Cut it at a slight A-line using a ruler, to the length desired.  Make sure to include seam allowances on all sides.
 Cut the two front pieces in the same shape as the back piece folded, but adding an inch on the inner edge for the placket.  Stitch side seams, right sides together and press.
 Pin first row of ruffles to the top, clipping out a space for the arm holes.  Stitch in place.
 Using store bought double fold 1/2" bias, or your own (for a better match), open up bias and stitch to the front around armhole.
 Fold bias back together and edge stitch along each side.
 Using a fabric pencil or marker, measure lines 2 1/4" down from the top of the dress.  This will put your next ruffle just under the first.  Continue marking the remainder of the dress.
 Pin the next ruffle on UPSIDE DOWN, matching the stitching line with your pencil/marker line.  Stitch in place.
 Flip your ruffle back down and edge stitch about 1/8", pulling the top up and the bottom down as you stitch.
 Next cut your straps out by cutting a rectangle of 16" X 4" on the grain.  Fold lengthwise and press. Fold raw edges toward the center crease and press, making sure edges line up.  Cut piece in half for your two straps.
Position the trim without cutting the other side, pinning in place.  Position straps, lining them up with the armholes.  Fold trim around to the other side, making a sandwich with the straps in the middle.  Cut trim and fold under raw edges.  Stitch around the perimeter of the trim.
Finish the hem by turning under twice and stitching, making sure it doesn't show beneath the last row of ruffles.  Baste down each side of dress to keep ruffles in place.
Cut two pieces of fabric 4" wide and 1" longer than the side of the dress.  Fold and press as you did with the straps.
Unfold and pin the placket piece along the edge, with the top edges even and the placket extending at the bottom.  Stitch a ONE inch seam.  Fold once toward the back, the fold the extended end under and fold again, encompassing the placket entirely.  Edge stitch along both sides of placket.
Apply the front trim the same as the back trim, make your button holes and you're finished!
 Choosing buttons is one of my favorite parts of a project.

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